HAIR PAINTING TUTORIAL
By Lara Antonucci of Angels In Waiting Nursery
These lessons come in 3 sections. Lesson 1 is working off of the 35 minute DVD. If you do not have the DVD, you can purchase one at:
OK, so now we are ready to start our hair painting! You do have your bald baby all painted and ready to go, right?
Oops! If your baby is not painted, please paint your baby and be ready to start hair before moving onto this lesson.
Lesson 1 Pencil DVD
Supplies: Finished baby, Prisma pencil of your color choice, pencil sharpener, photo of hair line that you like, REAL Hair Painting DVD
The DVD should be self explanatory. Here are some pictures of what your baby should look like finished.
This is the baby I used in the DVD before I rooted her lashes.
Now, it is your option to root over top of your penciled hair. I chose to root a little peach fuzz on my Eden, and here is how she turned out.
If you choose not to root over the pencil, you may use some matte varnish and a stiff brush to create texture to the hair. This isn’t necessary but it is an option.
Lesson 2 Comb Brush
Supplies: Comb brush, 20/0 script liner, odorless thinner, hair color paint of your choice (One dark and one lighter), completed bald baby
Let’s mix our paint. Consistency is the key here. If it’s too thick, you won’t be able to make your hairs tiny enough. If it is too watery, it will just drip and not give you an exact hair at all.
Start by adding your colors onto your palette. Slowly add in your odorless thinner.
It should be thin enough to draw a very thin line on your paper towel with your script liner.
First we are going to use our script liner and draw the hairline. You want to start at the sides and paint on the little hairs in the side burn area.
I like to use a 20/0 script liner, but you can use a larger one, if you want. It’s pretty much whatever you like to use for your brows. See how very light and thin we paint the hairs?
I draw the front of the hairline after I finish the sides. Remember to start high. You can always bring it down later. Blend in your front hairline to the sides. The front hairs should be facing forward, while the side hairs face downward.
Now, using your smaller comb brush you want to make your swirl. Do this by making a curved swoop in the back of the head. This should go up to the middle of the head.
Next, go in the center of your swirl, and bring it to your ear.
Then take another swoop from the bottom of the swirl towards the other ear.
This will give you a basic layout of where your hairlines should go. Now fill in all the areas using large sweeping motions.
Now you want to mix up a lighter color by adding in a bit more flesh tone, so you are in the same family, but maybe a shade lighter.
Go over your entire head with this lighter color. If you need to, fill in the smaller area with your script liner. At this point, your head has 2 layers of paint.
Going back to our darker color, add a couple drops of thinner, to make it just a bit thinner. Using the side of your brush add in some larger lines throughout the hair to add in some depth. Use your large dry mop brush and gently blend in your thicker lines to your hair.
Bake for 8 minutes and let cool for 8-10 minutes.
Now let’s go over the head again. Using the same consistency, create a mixture of flesh o8. Add just a touch of your lighter hair color. Go over the entire head with this color. This will add some depth and will also blend all the hairs together nicely.
Bake 8 minutes, let cool 8-10.
Once the head is completely cooled, we are going to work on our hair line. Add in more baby hairs around the temples and front of the hairline.
You also want to clean up the back of the head by adding in the finer hairs.
Finally, mix up some of your darker color again, and using your #1 round brush or similar brush, add in some thicker areas of hair.
Bake 8-10 minutes. Now your painted head is complete!!
Lesson 3 Script Liner/Brows
Supplies: 20/0 script liner, (nail art brushes work great, too!), hair color paint of your choice (one darker and one lighter)
These are some of the brushes that you might choose to use.
First off, we want to mix our paint. I will start with a small amount of burnt umber with some blue added. The blue will help to eliminate some of the orange you might get in your brown color.
Mix in a small amount of thinning medium.
It should have about the same consistency as when you do your brows.
Next we will mix up a lighter shade.
For this I used a flesh color (06 or 07 are fine) with a bit of yellow.
Now we have our paint mixed
Using your smallest script liner, add a bit of paint to your brush.
You can see that the paint is not too dark when applied to the vinyl.
Start with small baby hairs to frame the face and mark your hairline. It always helps to have a picture in front
of you for reference.
As you work with using a script liner, keep in mind that you want to barely touch the vinyl. If the hair is too dark or too thick, simply press a dry cosmetic sponge against the hair you want to lighten.
You want to be careful not to draw too many hairs too close together. I tend to bake about every inch of hair. Then when I make the next inch of hair, I can go over the first inch of hair with another layer adding depth.
Make sure as you draw your hair line that your hairs are going in the right direction as the hair growth. Hairs can grow inward toward the front of the face. It's always nice to add in some different hair growth patterns so that the hair is not all coming straight forward. It will look more realistic if you make your hair unique.
This is 2 bakes with one dark layer and one lighter layer of hair.
When you are working on the hairs near the ear, be sure to draw your hairs in toward your ear. It's nice
to add a little curl around the ear.
Now that we have most of hairline put in, we can add some brows if you like. I think it makes it easier to see if your hairline is positioned accurately.
Using the same soft touch, start with your hairs going up, and then turn the head slowly so that the hairs start "growing" at an angle. By the time you are at the top of the arch the hairs should be horizontal.
Towards the end of the brow, you can add in the upper hairs so that they make a "V".
As we are doing with the hair, go over this with a second layer in a lighter color. This will add depth to your brows.
Now let's move on to the back of the head. We will start with the swirl. Draw a hook in the back. The hook can go either direction...whichever you feel comfortable with.
Now take another curved line from the middle of the hook and draw it down toward the bottom of the ear.
At this time, you can start forming the back hairline.
I like to have the hairs come together in a point, so it is longer in the very center with thicker hair. Thicker hair in this sense just means more layers of paint. Remember to bake between each layer, so your hairs don't smear.
The curved line from the hook will end right behind the ear. Mark off sections toward the front, so you can work in easy sections and not have to question how all the hair will come together toward your swirl.
Now for the other side, draw your line from the bottom of your hook to the back of the other ear.
Slowly start to fill in your hair. It's easier to do it in small sections, then bake and go back over it with a lighter color, then bake. This is the most time consuming way to paint hair, but if you take your time with it and keep your brush strokes very light, you can have wonderful results that look very realistic.
Careful as you start coming in towards the swirl. You want the hairs to bend and look like they are growing that direction. Try not to make them too straight, or it won't look natural.
Now to make sure all the gaps are filled in, I go over the whole head with the lighter color. I try to use longer strokes, and I don't bake in sections. I just do the whole head and have it look nice and blended, and then I bake.
Now for the last step, you want to add in some thicker strokes. These will go where the hair is bending, and where the hairs would naturally appear thicker. I used my darker color for this. You can use your script liner still, or if you are going for a fuller look, feel free to use a bigger brush.
You especially want to add in thicker hair around the swirl.
Do one final bake.
Now, if you want to add texture, you can use your script liner to add little "hairs" with the matte varnish. So it is not too thick, you can then take a toothpick and run it over the matte, thus making one thicker hair appear to be two hairs.
Now you have a completed baby!
Matte & Gloss
Supplies: Genesis matte varnish, cosmetic sponge, filbert brush,20/0 script liner brush, Genesis air dry gloss, conditioning spray, baby cap
Are there any shiny spots on the limbs? If there are, you may need to do a quick coat of matte
varnish to get the shine off her.
Use your large mop brush and apply a small amount of matte varnish to the brush with your finger.
Dab gently onto any shiny areas. Tops of the cheeks, nose, and ear lobes are usually the places that get shiny.
Use a dry cosmetic sponge and lightly tap the areas that you applied the matte, so it is barely visible and smooth.
Apply a bit more matte onto the sponge with your finger again and gently pounce over the eyelids, nose, and tops of the cheeks. If you turn the baby to the side, you should be able to see the matte appear a little bumpy.
Smooth as much as you need to with your cosmetic sponge so it is very thin and barely visible.
Babies can get chalky looking, so you need to make sure that the matte is very thin. You may also mix a 1:1
ratio with thinning medium before applying.
Using your script liner brush, stroke it into the jar of matte. Trace the hairs of your brows and the tiny hairs
near the ears to add more texture.
You can then use the tip of a rooting needle so make little hair like lines in the brows.
This helps your paint to feel more like real hair when touched.
Bake at 265 for 8-9 minutes.
This usually needs to be baked 1 minute longer to make sure that the matte cures. If it is not bake long
enough, you will get a chalky look on your baby. Make sure you check your head through the last minute so
it does not get too hot. You don’t want to melt your head! It’s ok to turn the head half way through baking.
Cool 8- 10 minutes.
Once your baby is cooled, we can apply the gloss to the nails and lips. Mix your air dry gloss in the jar.
Use your filbert brush and apply a small amount of air dry gloss straight from the jar. It will appear wet when applied.
It takes about 30 minutes to dry. I like to wait 1 hour, and then I apply another coat. This will not only seal
your nail tips, so that they do not chip, but it also gives a nice shiny appearance to the nails and lips
without appearing wet. You can also use this in the corner of the eyes or in the nose if you want a wet appearance.
Inserting Eyes & Gluing
Supplies: Tacky glue, E-6000, eyes, lashes, nail trimming scissors or small scissors, small file, Exacto knife,
tweezers, Aleene's paper glaze, small paint brush (#1 round brush or similar)
I will go over how I insert eyes. Yes, I still do it the old fashioned way, by cutting the back. If you are more
comfortable going through the front, that is fine, just be sure your vinyl is nice and warm, so that the vinyl will be flexible and won't crack on you.
I will be demonstrating inserting half round poly glass eyes, as I am sure it is what most people are using.
First let's cut the back of your eye socket. Push the socket out, so you can see easier where to cut,
make a small c shape cut in the vinyl, just enough to allow you to slide the eye in.
Add a small amount of E 6000 to your eye. I only add a small amount on one side of the eye to secure it.
If you add too much, it just gets too messy. If your eye fits nice and tight, you may not need to use glue at all.
If you are using the glass blown, you do not need to add glue to the eye. The 22 mm fit very snug in the socket...you may need to cut your "C" in the vinyl a bit bigger to get them in, but don't cut the flap off all the way, as it helps to hold the eye. I added a bit of E-6000 to the base of my eye on the inside once they were set.
Gently push your eye into the socket with the dry side of the eye first. Pull the vinyl up over the part of the eye with the glue.
Turn the head forward and using your finger on the inside of the head, position the eye how you like it. If any
glue came through the front of the eye, wait until it is dry (about 10 minutes) and at that point, you can peel it
off the eye fairly easily. If any of it sticks to the eye, use a soft plastic cuticle pusher from a nail kit.
Do not use metal, or it can scratch the eye.
Now repeat with the other eye. If your kit has full eye sockets, and you are using half round eyes, you will
need to put about half a cotton ball in back of the eye to fill the rest of the socket. Once your eyes are in the
position you want, you can use some E 6000 to secure the vinyl socket shut again.
You may need to secure the eye with some poly-fill or a cotton ball to keep it tightly pressed against the
socket until the glue dries.
Now we will apply the lashes. After you have chosen the lashes you would like to use, hold one of the
lashes up against your eye. This will tell you how much of the lash you need to trim.
Use your small nail cutters to trim your lashes.
Secure your head in a large cup, upside-down, so that both of your hands are free.
Once they are the right length for your doll, apply a small line of tacky glue to your lash container. You can
use anything; really...I just like to use what is available. I am using the clear tacky glue, but you can use the
white tacky glue also because it will dry clear.
Using your tweezers, pick up your lash and dip it in the glue.
Make sure the ends of the lash have plenty of glue on them. Press the end of the lash against the upper part
of the lid and hold it with one hand. Using your other hand, take your small file or anything with a small tip on the end, and hold the end of the lash in place. Now you can use your tweezers to pull the opposite end of the lash into place.
You may need to hold the lash in place for a minute or two, until the glue hold it well enough on its own.
If you need to move your lash at all, you should be able to push it gently with your file.
Now, we will give the eyes a moist look with our Aleene's Paper glaze. Add a small amount onto your eye. Using your small brush, cover the entire eye.
It will look milky when first applied, then dry clear.
Once dry, this will also help secure your lashes in place. Once both eyes are covered, place your head back in your cup so it lies flat, so the Aleene's paper glaze dries evenly.
You will still see some white glue from the tacky glue until it dries clear.
Let your eyes dry for at least an hour.
If you rooted over your painted head, you need to secure the hair. Hold your head upside down, and pour
the Mod Podge or Aleene’s glue into the head. Using your brush spread out the glue so that it covers all the
hair inside. Make sure there is not a huge amount, or it will take too long to dry. You want just enough so that
it covers the hair.
If you wish to use magnets in your baby, you may secure them now by placing them where you want them on the outside of the head, then dropping the magnet in side. Let it dry completely, before taking off the outside magnet.
Tacky glue takes a good 24-48 hours to dry.
They do make quick dry glue, but honestly, I cannot tell if it dries any quicker. The Clear glue from
Aleene’s seems to dry within the 24 hours, but because it comes out clear; it may be difficult to tell when it is actually dry. The Mod Podge or white tacky glue will be white when applied, but when dry it will be clear.
Now we are going to cover up the nostrils from the inside for those of you who opened your nostrils.
Cut a piece of dark felt (your color choice) in a triangle. Place a small amount of tacky glue on one the
edges of the felt.
Use your fingers, or small wooden stick to place the felt inside the nose area. (Don't use metal or it may pull your magnets out, if they are not secure yet.) The end of the sponge you used for gluing works great!
Press the felt into the nose, so it fits securely.
If any glue came outside of the nose, use a wet Q tip to remove it.
Now is a great time to insert some of your magnets. Drop a magnet inside the head and using a magnet
on the outside, position it where you want your bow to be. Keep the magnet on the outside of the head to
hold the inside magnet inside until the glue dries.
Cut the nipple off of the pacifier using your Exacto knife. Place a small amount of E-6000 on your pacifier,
and add a magnet.
Take a small piece of fabric and cut out a small circle to cover your magnet and secure it to the pacifier.
Let the magnet dry for about an hour or 2.
Place a magnet inside the head on the outside of the lips and secure with E-6000. Use your magnetic pacifier
to position the magnet on the inside. You can leave the pacifier on the outside until the inside magnet is secure.
Now place the head on a cup upside down to dry.
Are you ready to finish? I thought so!!!!!
Supplies: Glass beads, poly pellets, body, cable ties, and nylon knee high stockings, side cutters or
large nail clippers, poly-fill, scissors, scale to weigh baby.
OK, let’s weight our baby. We will be using glass beads to weight her.
Fill your limbs up just past the elbow with the glass beads. The easiest way to do this is to scoop some
out of your bag with a measuring cup, and hold the limb over the bag and pour it in. You can also use a funnel,
if you have one, but as long as you hold your limb inside the bag, you won’t get beads spilling out onto the floor.
Make sure the glass beads are packed in by squeezing the hand so that the beads fall deeper into the limb.
Add the glass beads to the knee bend, or the bend of the elbow when weighting the arms. Fill the remainder with poly-fill. Use your finger or end of a pencil to keep pushing the poly-fill inside the limb until it is very packed and firm when you squeeze the limb. Set aside and fill the rest of your limbs.
Once all your limbs are all ready, use the stoppers from BB to secure your filling. If you are not using a kit
from BB, you can cut circles from clean cardboard or plastic, insert them into the opening then use
E-6000 glue to secure the opening.
Now take your knee high stocking and fill with about 1 ½ cups of your glass beads. It should be a
fairly decent size bag of beads. Tie your nylon bag, then, double the stocking and tie it again, so there are
2 layers of nylon.
Place your bag into the body and use poly-fill to fill around the body.
Add a small amount of poly-fill into the cotton part of the limbs. Attach your limbs with your cable ties.
Make sure your limb is in the correct position before you tighten your cable tie. Pull your cable tie as tight
To hide the closer (the rough part of your cable tie) into the body, pull the covering over the closer
as you can, and cut the remaining cable with your cutters as close to the end as possible.
with tweezers then move your cable tie, so that the closer is not at the opening. This way, when baby is
cuddled there are no sharp parts.
Now we’ll assemble the head. If you use glass beads, you are going to fill your head about half full with
poly-fill first, then add about a ½ cup of glass beads to your nylon bag. Again, double your nylon, insert
into the head, and fill the rest with poly-fill. Putting the beads in the chin area will make the head flop forward.
Putting the beads towards the back of the head will cause the head to flop backwards.
Add a bit more poly-fill to your body. You want to hold and squeeze your body to make
sure there is enough poly-fill.
Leave about 1 inch of room at the top for a floppy baby, or fill all the way to the top,
if you want the head to be more secure.
If you wish to use the neck ring on your baby, place it on before you weight your head.
Attach your head. Do not tighten your cable ties as tight as you did with your limbs. You want the head
to be able to move freely from side to side. Make sure the cable is tight enough that it cannot be popped off.
Now your baby is all finished! Dress and snuggle your baby at your leisure.